By Erik Cosselmon
Conventional relations recipes and the traditional Hellenic customized of welcoming the stranger as a pal recognized in Greece as philoxenia have encouraged the uniquely welcoming atmosphere of Kokkari eating place in San Francisco. a complete spring lamb spit-roasting over an open hearth greets diners, and the menu deals established dishes like dolmades, avgolemono soup, and lamb moussaka besides more odd Greek dishes resembling deep fried smelt, watermelon and feta salad, and grilled octopus. via its use of unpolluted seasonal elements, Kokkari brings a sophisticated, cosmopolitan sensibility to a cherished Mediterranean culinary culture. Its vendors and cooks are proud to have ushered in a brand new period of appreciation for shiny Greek flavors. Now they invite you to attempt a few of their favourite dishes at domestic, and want you a Greek bon appetit: kali orexi!
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Additional resources for Kokkari: Contemporary Greek Flavors
Lamb, the favored meat We have worked hard to find a source for lamb of comparable quality to the mild lamb served in Greece. For our whole lambs, we buy from only one source, a small producer who raises his lamb on ranches in Napa Valley and Colorado; dry-ages them for a week; and delivers them to us himself. In spring, when his young lamb is at its most tender and sweet, we temporarily stop roasting other meats on the spit and offer only Don Watson’s phenomenal lamb. The cleaned carcasses weigh about thirty-five pounds, and the meat tastes milky and mild.
Serves 6 64 appetizers | mezedes Fried Green Beans, Halloumi & Lemon Tiganita Fasolakia Summer’s wide, flat Romano beans are ideal for this preparation, but Blue Lake beans will also work. In spring, we use the same highly seasoned batter to fry young fava beans (the entire pod); in early summer, we substitute squash blossoms. Slices of fried halloumi surprise diners who think the cheese would melt in the fryer—it won’t—and the fried lemon slices provide refreshment. /8 inch thick ¼ pound halloumi cheese, in 4 slices, each broken in half lengthwise ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour Minced flat-leaf parsley for garnish Lemon halves for serving For the batter: In a large bowl, combine the flour, cornstarch, parsley, lemon zest, garlic, 2 teaspoons salt, and a pinch of pepper.
Process until smooth. Combine the two oils and, with the food processor running, add them in a slow, steady stream, as if making mayonnaise. You may need to add a small amount of water partway through if the mixture gets too stiff. It should be thick and spreadable. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving. This spread tastes best the day it is made. Makes about 1 ¹/3 cups appetizers | mezedes 47 48 appetizers | mezedes Cretan Barley Rusks with Tomato & Manouri Dakos In mid- to late summer, when tomatoes are at their juiciest, we grate them and spoon them over moistened barley rusks with manouri cheese and oregano to make Greek-style bruschetta.
Kokkari: Contemporary Greek Flavors by Erik Cosselmon